Kennebunkport Restaurants | 'Stripers' is a good catch

Dean Johnson, Sun Correspondent

Did you ever have the urge to "dine presidential" without worrying about things like renting a tux or keeping your pinky tucked while you eat?

If so, then you just might want to pop into Stripers, a seafood restaurant in the Breakwater Inn in Kennebunkport. The spot is literally a long walk from the Bush compound in the town and is, in fact, on the same road.

Recently, the eatery was the site of a Bush family wedding reception, too, when most of the clan turned out for the marriage of a distant relative of the president.

Stripers will be open through the end of October, so it's an ideal option for that last gasp summer weekend that hopefully will pop up before the end of the month. Consider it a good leaf-peeping destination, too, because most tables have ridiculously scenic views of the river that runs through downtown Kennebunkport and serves as home base for many of the local lobstermen's boats. The sun also happens to set over the river each night in what is often a spectacular display.

The operation itself isn't new. The location is. Stripers' former home was a cramped, casual place with an open kitchen and fairly tight quarters.

The move to the Breakwater Inn allowed it to go a little more uptown with the setting and decor, though the menu was only mildly tweaked.

A large saltwater fish tank is at the main entrance, setting the tone for the seafood restaurant that carries over to each table that has its own live Siamese fighting fish as part of the centerpiece. A small secret: the fish (well, at least our fish) loves the tiny bread crumbs left over from the complimentary selection served with, not butter or olive oil, but a smart salmon pate.

Though the decor, with covered chairs and petite oil lamps at each table, is on the upscale side, people in shorts were seated during our recent visit. I would recommend dress somewhere north of that, but a jacket and tie are hardly necessary.

Most seafood restaurants also include a good number of other options. Stripers doesn't. Carnivores beware! There are exactly three "fishless" entrees: free range chicken ($20.50), grilled rack of lamb ($26.50), and a filet steak ($29/$39), and that's it. If you won't even venture to try a bowl of the creamy, dill-laced clam chowder ($7.95), your non-salad appetizer options will be even more limited.

But for the rest of us, there will be plenty to choose from, including Maine salmon carpaccio ($12.50), lobster stew ($11.95/$20.95), or baby octopus salad ($11.50) for starters as well as entrees such as bouillabaisse ($32.50), salmon ($21), swordfish ($22.50), and lobster prepared four different ways at market prices.

The best way to go at the start just might be the cold seafood platter ($19/$32/$54). The least expensive version should be a fine starter platter for parties of two to four, and includes a half lobster tail, a couple of oysters and clams on the half shell, some mussels, and two big cocktail shrimp. The mussels were a little dry and without much flavor; everything else was terrific.

We were promptly served and there was none of the "who has " service at Stripers. Platters were plopped in front of the right person without a word, and everything was brought at once by waves of servers.

The martini salad ($8.95) is Stripers' version of a caesar salad, with olives instead of anchovies. It's made tableside, and all the ingredients are placed in a martini shaker and given a good going over before being served. Like James Bond, you're better off having it served "shaken, not stirred."

The grilled tiger shrimp ($28.00) included half a dozen beauties done to perfection in a garlic herb butter. They were served with french fries and mushy peas there are no other options, though side dishes such as green beans ($4) and crispy sweet chili spinach ($4.25) are available. Mushy peas are just that take an order of peas, mush them up, and serve them. A member of our party has never liked peas but was quite content to eat the mushy peas.

The ale-battered baby cod ($17.50) was tender and had a clean light taste; the airy ale batter added just a touch of sweetness. It was one of five fried dishes available, including shrimp, scallops, haddock, and sole. The bottom line: Stripers' new location makes it an even better catch.

Stripers
131 Ocean Avenue
Kennebunkport, Maine

Open 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. for lunch and 5:30-9 p.m.
Monday-Thursday, 5-9:30 p.m. Friday-Sunday. Dinner salads and appetizers $6.25-$19, entrees $17.50-$39. Full liquor license. Major credit cards accepted. Reservations accepted. Phone (207) 967-5333.

Food ****
Service ****
Atmosphere ****

The Breakwater Inn & Spa is your ideal Kennebunkport hotel or inn; a base for you to experience all that coastal Maine has to offer…shopping, all the Kennebunkport attractions and the many great Maine events that Kennebunkport and the coastal Maine region hosts each year. Make an online lodging reservation or enquire online, call us on 207-967-5333 or explore our Kennebunkport hotel and inn packages, deals and specials for your next romantic getaways and mid-week or weekend escapes.